On the occasion of the Portitsa festival held this year for 2η year, we again visited the village of Spilaio in the Prefecture of Grevena and the impressive Portitsa Gorge.
Following the provincial road from Grevena to Ziaka, we first come across the stone bridge of Ziaka. It is worth making a short stop there and admiring the reflection of the bridge in the calm water of Velonia, a tributary of the Venetian (photo 1).
From there the road climbs through a green landscape with oaks, beeches, black pines, lindens, gorsias, craniums and other trees. On the rocky slopes of Mount Orliakas there are many caves that served during the long history of the place as shelters for the inhabitants or as hiding places for fighters. The area is famous for its special natural beauty, as at the top of Orliakas the landscape is impressive with the huge steep rocks, where rare species of birds of prey nest. That is why the village and the region as a whole were declared and protected by the EOT and the Archaeological Service (Ministry of Culture) as "a place of particular natural beauty, but also of historical importance".
Passing the village of Ziakas, named after the legendary chieftain Theodoros Ziakas (1798 – 1882), we will have to pass through a rocky section, wild and impressive that creates awe in the visitor, as the narrow road passes by the edge of a vertical steep rock that covers it.
In a little while we reach the village of Spilaio, at an altitude of 1000m. and just 25 km from Grevena. In the beautiful mountain village with its stone streets, we are greeted by the wonderful Assumption Monastery, built in 1630 and featuring excellent architecture as well as a uniquely beautiful wood-carved iconostasis.
Crossing the main road we end up in the village square with the large shady plane tree (photo 2), the stone fountain with cool water and a preserved stone building, which houses the village library. Around the corner at the welcoming "To Spilaio" tavern, we tried delicious dishes with meat, mushrooms and local cheeses. The narrow main road leads us from the central square to a plateau dominated by the old and imposing stone school of the village built in 1930, which now serves as a venue for exhibitions and events. The village church next to the school is dedicated to Saint Athanasios (photo 3). Agios Athanasios was built in 1804. (According to oral tradition, the financing of its construction was done by the wife of Ali Pasha's secretary). The cafe of Thanos Portitsa Food, Drinks and Coffee opposite the stone school, welcomed us with cool refreshments, pleasant and interesting company.
We camped in the woods next to the village, in an area prepared by the community for visiting campers (photo 4). A musical event was planned in the beautifully landscaped open space in front of the old school. The melodious voices of the performers blended beautifully with the beautifully lit stone building and the romantic moonlight (photo 5).
Early in the morning we took the road to the gorge. The road is initially a well paved dirt road for a few kilometers and after the intersection with the road to Perivoli and Vovousa it becomes asphalt and descends with many bends towards the river (photo 6). Going down the view is unique.
At the end of the road next to the river we find the cafe "Portitsa Food, Drinks & Coffee" with tables in the shade of the trees, open only in summer, and a platform with places for parking cars. From there we walk just a few meters until we see the famous bridge of Portitsa, 280 years old (photo 7). From the top of the bridge we have a view of the gorge. Two towering stone volumes (200m) rise vertically limiting the wide riverbed to a narrow passage (photo 8).
From the opposite bank, it is possible to go down to the pebble-paved bed of the Venetian and from there walk for several meters into the gorge. The water in the summer is not too cold and in several places the bottom deepens allowing us to dive and swim. Many nature lovers camp around the riverbed, at the highest points under the shade of the trees, since there is a tap with drinking water near the bridge. We stayed in the canyon all morning enjoying the coolness, taking pictures and walking through the cool waters. A good hiking shoe, which offers us stability for walking in water, I think is essential (photos 9 – 12).
Back at the Cave, the workshops, activities, guided tours by volunteers and preparations for the musical evenings continued with gusto. In the company of Thymios (volunteer guide) we got to know the surrounding area, walked to the edge of the rocks and gazed down at the gorge (photos 13, 14, 15). Unforgettable feeling and beautiful images of nature.
From another volunteer, Kostas, I learned a lot about the history of the area and especially the Cave. The area was inhabited by Dorians who arrived in this rocky area with their families to protect the borders of the Byzantine Empire. From the prehistoric times, but also in the Iron Age, the Geometric, the Archaic, the Hellenistic, the Roman times, but also throughout the Christian period and up to our days, it was an impregnable fortress, where the inhabitants gathered from the neighboring villages, to protect themselves from barbarian raids, for almost three thousand years.
The history and tradition of the Cave have been written by personalities of letters and the arts, as well as the eminent Archaeologist, Andreas K. Vavritsas, who mentions among others: "In the area we have several archaeological finds, which reach the time when the Dorians appear (1200 BC). In the Acropolis of the Cave, which today is called "Koulia", I myself found, emphasizes A. Vavritsas, stone chips and pottery sherds and other objects of the Neolithic era. On the borders of the villages of Spileio, Monachitiou, and Trikomos, in the area called "Ziani", pre-war bronze weapons and swords, armor and other objects were found in tombs of the end of the Mycenaean era, which, however, unfortunately were lost during the duration of the war. Regarding the current name of the village, he emphasizes that it comes from the ancient Spilos, which means rock, and in fact a craggy rock".
Source: https://spileo.gr/index.php/aksiotheata/8-kastro
In closing, I would like to note that for the accommodation of visitors, the Cave and guest house, "The Balcony of Orliakas", now operates. You will find it easily at the entrance of the village. The inhabitants of the village are hospitable and interested in the promotion of their area.
It is really worth visiting the area of the Cave, walking and admiring the unsurpassed wild beauty. (photo 16 map) It is about 2,5 hours from Thessaloniki, so it is a very good suggestion for a day trip.
She writes
Magdaleni Pougoura
Visual artist - Photographer - Tourism & Culture Journalist
