There are some smells that have the power to transport you back in time. For me, one of them is the aroma of rosemary and vinegar simmering together.
When I was a kid, my grandfather, who was a cook, almost always had a small container of fish in a dark, fragrant sauce in his refrigerator. It wasn't the kind of food that won you over with its appearance. But every time he opened the lid, the aroma filled the kitchen and piqued my curiosity.
The first time I tried it, I was surprised. The acidity of the vinegar was intense, almost making me wince. And yet, a few seconds later, an incredibly delicious aftertaste lingered in my mouth that made me want another bite.
"This is delicious," he told me, smiling.
He explained to me that it wasn't just a recipe, but an old way of preserving fish for several days, long before modern refrigerators appeared. That way, there was always an exquisite meze ready for the family or for a friend who would suddenly drop by for a glass of wine or ouzo.
He did the same with beef liver. And if you ask me today, I still have a hard time deciding which of the two I loved more.
Later, when I decided to follow the path of cooking, I started researching the history of this special food. I discovered that savoro traveled throughout Greece. It can be found in Corfu and the Ionian Islands in general, in Kefalonia, in Zakynthos, but also in Crete, where each place has its own little touch.
Its name probably comes from the Latin word sapor, meaning taste or relish. The technique was developed during the Middle Ages and became particularly popular in the Ionian Islands during the Venetian period. Similar recipes were brought with them by the Sephardic Jews who settled in Venice in the 15th century.
The philosophy of savoro is simple and ingenious. The fish is fried and then simmered in an aromatic sauce of olive oil, vinegar, garlic and rosemary. The vinegar and oil act as natural preservatives, while at the same time providing a unique flavor that gets even better as the hours pass.
In several regions you will find variations with tomato paste, white wine or raisins, which add a different balance between acidity and sweetness.
But for me, savoro will always be more than just a traditional recipe. It's a taste that carries memories. It's the aroma of my grandfather's kitchen and a little reminder that the most beautiful recipes are born out of necessity, passed down from generation to generation, and ultimately become part of a family's history.
Red mullet Savory
Architectural, Building & Signage
For the fish
500 g Red mullet (or anchovy)
Flour
Olive oil for frying
Salt
Pepper
For the sauce
Olive oil
2 cloves garlic, cut into thin slices
2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 tsp dried
½ glass of red wine vinegar
1 tsp flour
Some water
Salt
Pepper
1 tbsp. tomato paste (optional)
Raisins (optional)
Preparation
Clean and wash the fish well.
Season with salt and pepper, lightly flour it and fry it in a little olive oil until it gets a nice color. Transfer it to a platter.
In the same pan, add a little more olive oil, if needed, and sauté the garlic until fragrant, without darkening.
Mix the vinegar with the flour, a little water and the rosemary and add them to the pan. If using tomato paste or raisins, add them at this stage.
Let the sauce come to a good boil and then return the fried fish to the pan so the flavors can combine.
Savory is eaten both hot and cold. In fact, many say that it is even tastier the next day, since all the aromas and flavors have blended better.
Every time I make savoro, I always leave some for the next day. Not only because it tastes even better that way, but because, opening the container in the fridge, I feel like I'm rediscovering my grandfather's kitchen for a moment. After all, the best recipes don't just preserve food. They preserve our memories, too.
You can discover all the unique recipes of our beloved Chef in the cookbook:
"Savor Greece" by The Greek Chef US, Tony Kavalieros
A unique gastronomic journey to the authentic flavors and aromas of Greece, through traditional recipes presented with the personal signature of Chef Tony Kavalieros.
The book is available through the global website:
www.greekbooksfl.com
📚 Print version: Available in the United States and Canada.
📱 Electronic version (eBook): Available worldwide.
🇬🇷 Print orders in Greece: Contact us at
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