Ο Swedish writer Mats Randow is a keen hiker and has spent several winters in Cyprus working on a travel guide dedicated to the island's trails. Starting from Sweden and with experiences from Lesvos, he has experienced Cyprus beyond the beaches, through mountains, rural villages, taverns and encounters with people. In this interview he talks about life in Cyprus, the differences compared to Sweden, his love of hiking, food and wine, as well as his desire to showcase a slower and more authentic side of the island.
How long have you lived in Cyprus and what attracted you to move here?
I came to Cyprus for the first time a few days after New Year's Eve 2020, just before the pandemic broke out. The reason was simple: I was going to start field research for the Cyprus travel guide. The pandemic interrupted that work and I returned to Gothenburg. I returned as soon as restrictions allowed and since then I have been spending most of the winters in Cyprus as a so-called "long-term visitor" (long stay), while at the same time I was working on the guide.
How would you describe the lifestyle and daily life compared to Sweden?
Cyprus is more relaxed and unpretentious; in short, order and organization are taken with a grain of salt. In Sweden things are more strictly organized, to the point where it sometimes feels excessive, although it is nice when you come back. I also feel that in Cyprus people spend more time socializing and caring for each other.
Take Sunday afternoons for example, with large groups of people having long meals in taverns. These are social gatherings with the whole family, across generations, where they are welcomed and friends. In Sweden, the best we usually get is a so-called AW with colleagues. There's nothing wrong with either, but I have the feeling that in Sweden we are more introverted and self-referential
There are disadvantages to living in Cyprus that Swedes should be aware of;
Not really, apart from the fact that you are further away from family and friends in Sweden. Dealing with authorities and similar issues can be more complicated, as you don't know how things work until you know. You need to ask for help and be patient. The climate can also be a disadvantage in the heart of summer, when heat waves sweep across the island. The heat can be relentlessly unforgiving.
Hiking and food often go together – is there a Cypriot dish or product that you particularly associate with your treks?
Here too there are different traditions. In Sweden it is customary to cook over an open fire while hiking. This is extremely dangerous and illegal in Cyprus, as the risk of fire is extremely high. In Cyprus I do as the locals do and have food ready to eat with me. It consists of fruit and energy snacks. Like the Cypriots, I also like to end the day in a tavern in a rural village.
Cyprus has a rich wine tradition. Have you tried any local wines that impressed you?
Absolutely. Cyprus has a long tradition and excellent high-quality wines. I must definitely mention the local varieties. Maratheftiko, a very old, deep red variety, is one of my favorites, as is the Xynisteri variety, which is probably the most common white variety in Cyprus. We should also not forget the sweet wine Commandaria, a sweet piece of the island's history. It is said to be the oldest wine in the world, with a tradition that goes back to the Crusader era in the 12th century, and probably much older.
How did the idea for the book come about? Was it a personal passion for hiking or did you want to show another side of Cyprus?
The idea originally came from my publishing house, Wilderness Library, with whom I collaborate. I found it immediately very inspiring, on a new Mediterranean island for me. If one wants to discover another side of a highly developed tourist island like Cyprus, hiking is an excellent way. The slow pace allows you to see and discover things that the traditional tourist does not have time to do. You reach areas with unique nature, old villages with history, encounters with people and culture. I like to write about them and inspire others to discover them too.
Is there a specific place or route in Cyprus that means something special to you?
It’s a question I get asked often and it’s also a difficult one, because I like so many places. Cyprus has a variety that I like, from the beautiful beaches to the views from the slopes of Mount Olympus. If I think about it more, I would happily mention the wider area of the Akamas peninsula, which I really like. As a solo hiking route, I would probably choose Mount Madari in the Troodos mountains, with wonderful trails through dense forests and beautiful viewpoints.
If you had to describe Cyprus in three words – what would they be?
Now I think quickly and spontaneously. Crystal clear waters, long history and sunshine. Sorry, but it turned out to be five words.
What advice would you give to someone who wants to discover Cyprus on foot for the first time?
Is it summer? Be careful with the heat and climb to the highest points of Troodos. Is it raining and windy? Avoid gorges and steep slopes. Small and large stones can fall. Also read a little about the route so you know what to expect. Check the elevation changes and the degree of difficulty, the length of the route and the type of terrain on the trails. Allow plenty of time and avoid deviating from the route. Use a map application that works with GPS of your phone.
You have also written about Lesvos. TI made you interested in this island.;
I was attracted there by a friend in 2016 and discovered a very beautiful island with nice and easily accessible hiking trails. I stayed on Lesvos for a little over two years as a hiking guide. That's where the idea for a guide to Lesvos was born, when I got in touch with my publishing house, the Wilderness Library, as I had gathered a lot of information about the island's trails and destinations.
What similarities and differences do you see between Lesvos and Cyprus, in terms of nature, culture and people?
There are many similarities, such as the diverse nature and vegetation. The culture is very similar, with traditions, the Orthodox Church and food. The people are hospitable and speak the same language on both islands. The differences are easily highlighted through the language. Cyprus is a divided island, with Turkish-speaking Cypriots in the north and Greek-speaking Cypriots in the south. In a way, Cyprus seems closer to Europe to me, even though it is geographically further away. This is due to the infrastructure, which gives me this feeling. Lesvos has not been affected by tourism to the same extent as Cyprus, which makes the old traditions seem more alive and charming.
Is there something in Lesvos that you miss in Cyprus or vice versa?
I love the locally produced, traditional food in Lesvos. While of course pizza is also available in Lesvos, sometimes I miss a wider range of food there. Although traditions are strong in Cyprus, I can miss the more authentic element that exists in Lesvos. For example, on a hike in Cyprus I miss the herds of sheep and goats of the shepherds moving freely in the countryside. In essence, it is about the small things, where both islands have their own advantages and disadvantages in relation to each other.
